Game Forum / Simulators / Car Simulators / January 2004
Braking
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Haqsau - 25 Jan 2004 23:12 GMT In almost every online race I have participated in recently there have been a few guys who could brake in a much shorter distance than the others. This often adds up to a difference of as much as 2 seconds per lap. I haven't been concentrating on braking much because I have always been told that line and exit speed are more important. But some work with replay analyzers has shown me that braking is my weakest point relative to the aliens and the primary thing that is keeping me in the middle of the pack. So I would really like to hear from some of the experts. How are you able to brake in so much shorter distance than other people? This happens even in fixed setup leagues like RASCAR so I don't think it has anything to do with setup. I also don't think it's equipment. Some people just seem to have a better feel for it than others, and I want that skill! ;o) Any hints you can give would be highly appreciated, and probably not just by me.
Dave Henrie - 26 Jan 2004 00:15 GMT > In almost every online race I have participated in recently there have been > a few guys who could brake in a much shorter distance than the others. This [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > feel for it than others, and I want that skill! ;o) Any hints you can give > would be highly appreciated, and probably not just by me. In a similar vein, the TPTCC league just finished its round at Heartland Park. A track with many Square corners. But in the back section there is a Quick left/right/left between two straights and at the entrance to that I was loosing 1/2 second each lap to the guy behind me. I'd spend the rest of the lap building up a small cushion only to see him chop off another big chunk at that one corner entry. At other times I have often heard, in Papyrus sims, cars behind me still at full power while I'm already lifting/braking and downshifting. I kept waiting for the big rearend hit because I was lifting so much earlier than the other cars. I can brake later...I just can't make the turn.
dave henrie
EldredP - 26 Jan 2004 01:28 GMT > At other times I have often heard, in Papyrus sims, cars behind me still >at full [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] >the other cars. > I can brake later...I just can't make the turn. Been there, done that. It usually ends one of two ways: 1 - the trailing car spins trying to avoid me at a huge closing rate 2 - I get punted by the trailing car. The excuse being, "You braked WAY too early!"
Eldred
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EldredP - 27 Jan 2004 05:15 GMT >2 - I get punted by the trailing car. The excuse being, "You braked WAY too >early!" And, this just happened in a race last night at Silverstone(end of Hangar Straight. Fortunately, the other driver was on the side of me instead of behind me. I hit the brakes *later* than my normal braking point, and STILL caught him unawares. He shot past me like I was standing still. Frustrating, dammit...
Eldred
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Maxx - 27 Jan 2004 09:38 GMT Just thought I'd chip in with something not mentioned yet (unless I missed a post). It's VERY important to apply the brakes gradually. What I mean is don't stamp on them to their full travel at the moment you wish to brake. This essentially causes massive weight shift forward, which is harder to "brake" against, hence you generally have your "full travel" set at about 80% of potential braking force to avoid lock up. By "set at" I mean you've either got the squash ball, or other method of restricting travel OR your foot is just educated at that level.
If you press the brake at 10% for a split second, just to compress the springs, then squeeze it to maximum, you will end up being able to use more braking force than you could before for the later part of the braking.
This is not going to stop those folks flying by you under braking as they are no doubt experts at gas+brake but it does work to lower lap times,. even if you end up braking a fraction earlier at first, until you get used to it.
Coming off the brake properly is equally important, don't jump off it at the moment of turn in, or you'll decrease your potential cornering grip by at least 20%, you need to ease off it AS you turn in (this isn't "specifically" trail-braking).
Maxx
PS. I know it's been a while since I posted here. I still read r.a.s. regularly but rarely have the time to post.
Haqsau - 27 Jan 2004 13:58 GMT Thank you Maxx, that was one of the things I have been wondering about. Another question I have is if it is necessary to modulate the brake during downshifts, and if so, how? Sometimes when I am braking hard I get lockups when I shift, but I'm not sure if it is during the shift or after the clutch engages.
> Just thought I'd chip in with something not mentioned yet (unless I > missed a post). It's VERY important to apply the brakes gradually. [quoted text clipped - 25 lines] > PS. I know it's been a while since I posted here. I still read r.a.s. > regularly but rarely have the time to post. Steve Smith - 27 Jan 2004 17:55 GMT In the RW, it's advisable to ease up on the braking whilst downshifting, but that loses you ground vs. yer competitors, so....my advice is to modulate the brakes at the threshold of lockup all the way down and adjust the shift points to the highest speed that doesn't unsettle the car. That will add some engine braking (which seems preternaturally strong in N2003) without making the car squirrelly.
> Thank you Maxx, that was one of the things I have been wondering about. > Another question I have is if it is necessary to modulate the brake during [quoted text clipped - 31 lines] > > PS. I know it's been a while since I posted here. I still read r.a.s. > > regularly but rarely have the time to post. Joachim Trensz - 27 Jan 2004 18:47 GMT > In the RW, it's advisable to ease up on the braking whilst downshifting I do that in N2k3 as well (did it in GPL and in any other sim probably as well) to prevent the rear wheels from locking up momentarily and thus upset the car's balance.
It does not seem to impede my braking performance.
Achim
Shock - 27 Jan 2004 17:04 GMT Maxx,
Where can I get a good squash ball to use for the mod? I looked at the local mall and I couldn't find one.
Thanks,
Shock
> Just thought I'd chip in with something not mentioned yet (unless I > missed a post). It's VERY important to apply the brakes gradually. [quoted text clipped - 25 lines] > PS. I know it's been a while since I posted here. I still read r.a.s. > regularly but rarely have the time to post. EldredP - 28 Jan 2004 03:43 GMT >Just thought I'd chip in with something not mentioned yet (unless I >missed a post). It's VERY important to apply the brakes gradually. [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] >ball, or other method of restricting travel OR your foot is just >educated at that level. Maxx! Good to see you around! I currently don't have any way of restricting brake travel. A TSW2mod doesn't really(that I've seen) lend itself to a squash ball mod. Of course, I could just not understand how it's supposed to be set up. I've never seen a picture of how it should be...
Eldred
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Steve Smith - 28 Jan 2004 11:44 GMT The TSW2 doesn't need it. There's enuf pedal travel that you shouldn't need a tennis ball to tell you when enuf's enuf. You might raise the spring strength if yer having trouble. Or use the F10 view (GPL) or roof cam (N2003) and let the puff of white smoke tell you when yer locking up the brakes (hey, it works for the Vatican!).
> >Just thought I'd chip in with something not mentioned yet (unless I > >missed a post). It's VERY important to apply the brakes gradually. [quoted text clipped - 13 lines] > > Eldred EldredP - 28 Jan 2004 17:38 GMT >The TSW2 doesn't need it. There's enuf pedal travel that you shouldn't need >a tennis ball to tell you when enuf's enuf. You might raise the spring >strength if yer having trouble. How - is it adjustible? If I have to *replace* the spring, know any good suppliers?
>Or use the F10 view (GPL) or roof cam >(N2003) and let the puff of white smoke tell you when yer locking up the >brakes (hey, it works for the Vatican!). Vatican? Ok, I don't understand that one...
Eldred
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Darryl Johnson - 28 Jan 2004 18:09 GMT >>(N2003) and let the puff of white smoke tell you when yer locking >>up the brakes (hey, it works for the Vatican!). > > Vatican? Ok, I don't understand that one... > > Eldred The Vatican uses different colours of smoke to annouce to the world which candidate was elected as the new Pope. They may use smoke signals on other occasions as well -- not that versed (pun intended) on Roman Catholicism,
And "v.v." means vice versa (from other message).
We've got to get you out more Eldred. <VBG>
 Signature Darryl
EldredP - 29 Jan 2004 03:14 GMT >And "v.v." means vice versa (from other message). > >We've got to get you out more Eldred. <VBG> Too much on my mind, I guess... :-(
Eldred
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Steve Smith - 28 Jan 2004 18:23 GMT Any auto repair shop usually has a cornucopia of springs, some of which will fit. Or just add some rubber bands.
[When the Vatican elects a new Pope, they signal the world waiting outside with a puff of white smoke.]
> >The TSW2 doesn't need it. There's enuf pedal travel that you shouldn't need > >a tennis ball to tell you when enuf's enuf. You might raise the spring [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > > Eldred EldredP - 29 Jan 2004 03:14 GMT >Any auto repair shop usually has a cornucopia of springs, some of which will >fit. Or just add some rubber bands. Hmm...I'll check that out.
>[When the Vatican elects a new Pope, they signal the world waiting outside >with a puff of white smoke.] Wow - you learn something new every day...<g>
Eldred
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Uwe =?iso-8859-15?Q?Sch=FCrkamp?= - 30 Jan 2004 19:56 GMT > Maxx! Good to see you around! > I currently don't have any way of restricting brake travel. A TSW2mod doesn't > really(that I've seen) lend itself to a squash ball mod. Of course, I could > just not understand how it's supposed to be set up. I've never seen a picture > of how it should be... Hi Eldred,
I can mail you some digital images of "my" squash ball version if it helps.
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EldredP - 30 Jan 2004 23:08 GMT >> Maxx! Good to see you around! >> I currently don't have any way of restricting brake travel. A TSW2mod [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] >I can mail you some digital images of "my" squash ball version if it >helps. Yes, please. It couldn't HURT...
Eldred
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Steve Smith - 27 Jan 2004 11:58 GMT This is the technique Ken Miles used to employ to get guys off his tail. Always worked...with newbies, wouldbies, and has-beens.
> >2 - I get punted by the trailing car. The excuse being, "You braked WAY too > >early!" [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > Eldred Larry - 26 Jan 2004 20:30 GMT I've absolutely noticed that as well.
-Larry
> At other times I have often heard, in Papyrus sims, cars behind me still at full > power while I'm already lifting/braking and downshifting. [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > dave henrie Steve Smith - 26 Jan 2004 12:11 GMT Braking has always been my worst "feature," in both real and simulated braking. I can't figure it out either...especially how guys can keep in from looping with the extreme rear brake-bias often used in GPL. There, the explan. may be in simultaneous throttle+brake application (cf. prev. discussion of Rubens & Schui @ Silver last year), but that doesn't seem to apply to N2003, at least not to the same degree.
Then there's the "accordian effect" when the guy behind closes up under braking.
Ultimately, I think some guys are just better than thee/me under braking.
The way I compensate is to focus on line and exit speed to the exclusion of almost everything else. That is, not to get so desperate w. my braking efforts that I mess up the line (getting the car positioned for the exit) and thus mess up my exit speed.
Plus making the car Double Wide going into the corner. If they can't get around me under braking, I can usually fend 'em off on the subsequent straight.
P.S. If you find out what kind of Particle Physics (or other supernatural force) is aiding these Aliens, lemme know, willya?
> In almost every online race I have participated in recently there have been > a few guys who could brake in a much shorter distance than the others. This [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > feel for it than others, and I want that skill! ;o) Any hints you can give > would be highly appreciated, and probably not just by me. EldredP - 27 Jan 2004 05:15 GMT >The way I compensate is to focus on line and exit speed to the exclusion of >almost everything else. That is, not to get so desperate w. my braking >efforts that I mess up the line (getting the car positioned for the exit) >and thus mess up my exit speed. I get killed with exit speed as well. They got me coming and going. If I slow earlier(so as not be desperate), I just go through the corner slower. It doesn't help exit speed at ALL.
Eldred
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MadDAWG - 26 Jan 2004 12:36 GMT > I also don't think it's equipment. I have no idea what type of wheel/pedal setup you have, but I just ditched my red MOMO for a MSFF, and it made a world of differance.
MadDAWG
Steve Smith - 26 Jan 2004 13:10 GMT Absolutely, Dawg. My ECCI pedals were worth a second or two a lap almost anywhere in GPL, and the TSW pedals I use with my Logi MOMO wheel are likewise indispensible equipment. You can't *begin* to modulate threshold braking with the flimsy, short-throw plastic pedals that come with most wheels. Also, most third-party/aftermarket wheels allow you to very the pedal pressure (ECCI had a pneumatic device that allowed you to adjust for a *progressively* stiffer pedal), which is critical for dialing in the best *feel*.
> > I also don't think it's equipment. > > I have no idea what type of wheel/pedal setup you have, but I just ditched > my red MOMO for a MSFF, and it made a world of differance. > > MadDAWG Mitch_A - 26 Jan 2004 16:30 GMT PMB2 Steve. I just ordered a set thats Momo Force compatible :)
> Absolutely, Dawg. My ECCI pedals were worth a second or two a lap almost > anywhere in GPL, and the TSW pedals I use with my Logi MOMO wheel are [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > *progressively* stiffer pedal), which is critical for dialing in the best > *feel*. Dave Henrie - 26 Jan 2004 21:12 GMT > PMB2 Steve. I just ordered a set thats Momo Force compatible :) PMB2??? Whose are those?
dave henrie
Mitch_A - 26 Jan 2004 21:24 GMT Steve was refering to Pressure modulated Braking in a previous post so I was just being specific as to the name (and bragging cause I just purchased a set hehe:). PMB2 For the ECCI 6000 pedals PMB for the 4000's.
> > PMB2 Steve. I just ordered a set thats Momo Force compatible :) > > PMB2??? Whose are those? > > dave henrie Dave Henrie - 26 Jan 2004 22:04 GMT > Steve was refering to Pressure modulated Braking in a previous post so I was > just being specific as to the name (and bragging cause I just purchased a > set hehe:). PMB2 For the ECCI 6000 pedals PMB for the 4000's. So just like the old saying goes...If I had to ask, they are too much!!
dave henrie
Mitch_A - 26 Jan 2004 23:16 GMT Not THAT much.
Base Price $259 PMB2 $79 SH $30 Total $358
I never used a decent clutch model in a sim yet with my Perf pedals so I figurered no need for greater expense with these, though I do use it to look behind in F1c/mods :)
The MAIN reason I went this route now is it was the only Momo compatible unit left.at ECCI :-) All new production is going towards wheel/pedal units so they say.
I figure Ill just do it in stages as Ive always done. The new BRD Speed7 wheel sounds mighty tasty too and I got a 40th knockin at my doorstep :)
Mitch
> So just like the old saying goes...If I had to ask, they are too much!! > > dave henrie EldredP - 27 Jan 2004 05:15 GMT >I figure Ill just do it in stages as Ive always done. The new BRD Speed7 >wheel sounds mighty tasty too and I got a 40th knockin at my doorstep :) Eh, you're just a KID...<g> (40 in 2003)
Eldred
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Mitch_A - 27 Jan 2004 07:38 GMT I didnt say I was 40 yet ya ole geezer :) 40 in 05.
> In article <zdhRb.6339$Mw6.5219@newssvr29.news.prodigy.com>, "Mitch_A" > > Eh, you're just a KID...<g> > (40 in 2003) > > Eldred bluestringer - 27 Jan 2004 22:58 GMT > >I figure Ill just do it in stages as Ive always done. The new BRD Speed7 > >wheel sounds mighty tasty too and I got a 40th knockin at my doorstep :) [quoted text clipped - 3 lines] > > Eldred Eh....what's that you say youngster? (52 in 2003)
bluestringer
EldredP - 28 Jan 2004 03:43 GMT >Eh....what's that you say youngster? >(52 in 2003) No comment...<g>
Eldred
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EldredP - 27 Jan 2004 05:15 GMT >Absolutely, Dawg. My ECCI pedals were worth a second or two a lap almost >anywhere in GPL, and the TSW pedals I use with my Logi MOMO wheel are [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] >> I have no idea what type of wheel/pedal setup you have, but I just ditched >> my red MOMO for a MSFF, and it made a world of differance. I don't think it's equipment either. But, I've never had the chance to drive someone else's rig, and vice-versa. There may be something wrong in my setup that would slap someone else in the face because it's so obvious. But with nothing else to compare it to...
Eldred
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Steve Smith - 27 Jan 2004 12:04 GMT What Malc said (above): REAL important, esp. the part about coming off the brakes, 'cuz if you just POP off the binders, not only will you spike outside the traction circle, you've prolly also slowed down a lot more than you needed to (otherwise, you'd time-consumingly slew coming off the brakes). Believe it.
> >Absolutely, Dawg. My ECCI pedals were worth a second or two a lap almost > >anywhere in GPL, and the TSW pedals I use with my Logi MOMO wheel are [quoted text clipped - 16 lines] > > Eldred Steve Smith - 27 Jan 2004 13:06 GMT Erm, sorry, not what Malc said, what MAXX said...doh!
> What Malc said (above): REAL important, esp. the part about coming off the > brakes, 'cuz if you just POP off the binders, not only will you spike [quoted text clipped - 28 lines] > > > > Eldred EldredP - 28 Jan 2004 03:43 GMT >What Malc said (above): REAL important, esp. the part about coming off the >brakes, 'cuz if you just POP off the binders, not only will you spike >outside the traction circle, you've prolly also slowed down a lot more than >you needed to (otherwise, you'd time-consumingly slew coming off the >brakes). Believe it. I don't understand - how does 'popping off the binders' slow you down more...?
My common approach to a turn goes like this:
Brake like hell in a straight line coming up to the turn to get slowed down to what I think is a safe speed Get off the brake/turn in (I honestly can't tell which I do first) After turn in, get back on the gas.(because I think I'm going too slow) Lift in mid turn(or coast) to make sure I'll make the turn(because I think I'm going too fast) After the car is on the next straight, apply gas again
Yes, I know this is probably what's screwing me up...but I have been unable to change it. Even after I realized what I was doing(I don't remember exactly what made me aware of it), I don't know how to change...
Eldred
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Ruud Dingemans - 28 Jan 2004 04:03 GMT > Get off the brake/turn in (I honestly can't tell which I do first) > After turn in, get back on the gas.(because I think I'm going too slow) [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > change it. Even after I realized what I was doing(I don't remember exactly > what made me aware of it), I don't know how to change... Eldred, I recognize some of this - what I learned after a while (besides using the gears/engine to slow down in a more stable fashion) is that I now do the "get back on the gas" part earlier and smoother. I brake a tiny bit less late, for the Glen's Ninety let's say, and then after getting off the brake I immediatly get on the gas again, but *only a bit* and then I hold it there, for the first part of the turn, just a quarter-second or so; and after the car's stabilized like this and I know I'm getting out of the turn, I really get the throttle down.
So the 'getting back on the gas' after braking is probably good, but you could do it maybe a bit more timidly, just enough to hold the speed and stabilize the car; as above, it sounds like you're whacking on the throttle pedal a bit too hard in the first part. Just try and do the same but a bit less brutal - that way, at least you wouldn't have to back down in the middle of the turn, and can accelerate more smoothly.
Hope it helps,
Regards, Rudy (GPLRank -21)
EldredP - 28 Jan 2004 17:43 GMT >So the 'getting back on the gas' after braking is probably good, but you >could do it maybe a bit more timidly, just enough to hold the speed and >stabilize the car; as above, it sounds like you're whacking on the >throttle pedal a bit too hard in the first part. Just try and do the >same but a bit less brutal - that way, at least you wouldn't have to >back down in the middle of the turn, and can accelerate more smoothly. Since N2k3 shows pedal input(right?), maybe someone could see exactly what I'm doing if I posted a lap... I don't have N2k3 Replay analyzer, because there was a cost for it. I hadn't justified spending the money, since I'm not in any NASCAR leagues anymore... Besides, having GPLRA for the past 3 years didn't exactly let me improve by leaps and bounds. It's one thing to see what someone else is doing - it's an entirely different thing to be able to do it yourself.
Eldred
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Steve Smith - 28 Jan 2004 11:56 GMT If yer right on the limit of (longitudinal) adhesion when you jump OFF the brakes, the sudden rearward weight transfer will upset the car, maybe even enuf to lose the rear end. Thus, if yer in the habbit of jumping off the brakes, yer prolly compensating by being on the safe side of the limit of long. adhes., ergo yer not getting the most outta yer brakes. Q.E.D.
Turning in before lifting (or braking) vs. the opposite is critical. The best place to demonstrate this is T3 at MIS. You need rather different setups for one vs. the other. Generalizing, if yer setup pushes, start turning in first (and v.v.).
I know what you mean abt. being able to identify yer mistakes w/o being able to correct 'em. I used to tell the tennis pro what mistake I was about to make before his return shot even cleared the net...then go ahead and make the mistake exactly as promised. He quit in disgust. (So I became a race driver!)
> >What Malc said (above): REAL important, esp. the part about coming off the > >brakes, 'cuz if you just POP off the binders, not only will you spike [quoted text clipped - 19 lines] > > Eldred EldredP - 28 Jan 2004 18:02 GMT >If yer right on the limit of (longitudinal) adhesion when you jump OFF the >brakes, the sudden rearward weight transfer will upset the car, maybe even >enuf to lose the rear end. Thus, if yer in the habbit of jumping off the >brakes, yer prolly compensating by being on the safe side of the limit of >long. adhes., ergo yer not getting the most outta yer brakes. Q.E.D. Maxx gave me a braking drill to do at Silverstone a while ago. Basically just braking for the turn, but not hitting the gas again until track out, IIRC. Maybe I need to revisit that... I never got the hang of it. The problem I think I ran into was that I could never figure out exactly how much braking would get me through the turn safely. It always seemed like I'd fall off the outside.
>Turning in before lifting (or braking) vs. the opposite is critical. The >best place to demonstrate this is T3 at MIS. You need rather different >setups for one vs. the other. Generalizing, if yer setup pushes, start >turning in first (and v.v.). v.v.?
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Steve Smith - 28 Jan 2004 18:25 GMT [v.v. = vice versa]
> >If yer right on the limit of (longitudinal) adhesion when you jump OFF the > >brakes, the sudden rearward weight transfer will upset the car, maybe even [quoted text clipped - 15 lines] > > v.v.? jason moyer - 28 Jan 2004 18:26 GMT >v.v.? Vice versa.
Jason
EldredP - 29 Jan 2004 03:14 GMT >>v.v.? > >Vice versa. Oh, DUH! I can't believe I didn't get that one. I think I'm losing it...
Eldred
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jason moyer - 26 Jan 2004 20:29 GMT >I have no idea what type of wheel/pedal setup you have, but I just ditched >my red MOMO for a MSFF, and it made a world of differance. I have a non-FF Sidewinder and the pedals are pure heaven. I went through half a dozen wheels before this one and I now own 2. Haven't seen anything in the past 4 years I'd trade them for.
Jason
Larry - 26 Jan 2004 21:11 GMT I agree (damn, that's twice in one day LOL!).
The MS Wheel Pedals are the best _consumer_ grade pedals going.
-Larry
> >I have no idea what type of wheel/pedal setup you have, but I just ditched > >my red MOMO for a MSFF, and it made a world of differance. [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > Jason Byron John Forbes - 26 Jan 2004 13:11 GMT Since you mention this is also a problem in fixed setups, I suppose we can count brake bias out. Obviously, the more rear brake bias you can handle (up to the point just b4 the rears start to lock b4 the fronts of course), the greater the braking potential of the car. So.....
Firstly, the simple thing is the skills that come from experience ie laps done. Being able to brake later is a matter of being able to
a) handle heavy braking at high speeds, particularly with aggressive brake bias b) Being able to throw the car into a corner and handle it - notice the word "throw" rather than drive :)
Both of these come from endless laps and endless daring! :) The best drivers are expert at anticipating what the car is about to do and and stopping it from doing it. The difference between aliens and the rest is that a situation that results in most drivers losing control is a situation that an alien sees as routine about a dozen times or more per lap. And these natural/instincive recovery skills just get better over time - one gets a feel for them.
Also, being able to brake whilst turning in is crucial as well. This will make a huge difference to anyone not presently doing this. And, of course, the deeper the better.
A few other things to tinker with whilst developing these skills are the relationship between brake bias and the turn in characteristics of the suspension. More rear brake bias makes the car turn in better under braking but harder to handle. Less makes it turn in less but may inspire more confidence and the ability to brake more aggressively. Have fun - do a lot of laps and BE DARING. The more you walk the tightrope the better you get at it. Just practice offline! :)
> In almost every online race I have participated in recently there have been > a few guys who could brake in a much shorter distance than the others. This [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > feel for it than others, and I want that skill! ;o) Any hints you can give > would be highly appreciated, and probably not just by me. Steve Smith - 26 Jan 2004 18:41 GMT Which hails into question the whole "trail braking" argument (braking whilst turning). In the same revelations re Schui and Rubens at Silver last year, it's obvious that braking in a straight line makes the car slow down faster (you're at the northern edge of the traction circle), but leaves yer inside line unprotected. Trail braking (you're at, say, the northwestern edge of the circle diving into a righthand turn) allows you to brake later and avoid spiking outside the circle during the transient, but requires a lot more skill (Doug Arnao, wearing his driving instructor's hat--er, helmet--won't teach this technique to any but his best students). Using the throttle whilst braking allows you to shift the weight rearward at will, thus maximizing the available traction, but requires even more skill (and, in the RW, Brembo brakes as big as manhole covers). Professional driver on a closed course. Don't try this at home...except in your driveway (if it's real long) or on yer 'puta.
> Since you mention this is also a problem in fixed setups, I suppose we > can count brake bias out. Obviously, the more rear brake bias you can handle [quoted text clipped - 49 lines] > give > > would be highly appreciated, and probably not just by me. jason moyer - 26 Jan 2004 20:31 GMT > Don't try this at home...except in your driveway (if it's >real long) or on yer 'puta. Even on yer puta, if it's GPL, save that left foot for the floor/clutch pedal. =p
Jason (RFB 4 EVER)
EldredP - 27 Jan 2004 05:15 GMT > Also, being able to brake whilst turning in is crucial as well. This will >make a huge difference to anyone not presently doing this. And, of course, >the deeper the better. For me, braking whilst turning usually results in me suddenly sliding backwards towards an immovable object.
Eldred
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Ruud Dingemans - 27 Jan 2004 05:38 GMT > For me, braking whilst turning usually results in me suddenly sliding backwards > towards an immovable object. Well, the back is SUPPOSED to go and slide, so you got it at least HALF right... <g>
I don't find it easy either, only use it here & there, but then I got single-axis el-cheapo pedals. What did help though, was learning to use the engine for braking (in GPL). Made slowing down a whole lot less hectic...
Regards, Rudy (GPLRank -21)
Steve Smith - 27 Jan 2004 12:04 GMT Move the BB forward a coupla clicks.
> > Also, being able to brake whilst turning in is crucial as well. This will > >make a huge difference to anyone not presently doing this. And, of course, [quoted text clipped - 4 lines] > > Eldred Byron John Forbes - 27 Jan 2004 12:47 GMT Just to be totally clear, when one does this one is depressing the brake pedal by the smallest amount possible. Gently scrubbing off speed is a better term to use than "braking". Every little bit helps to keep one out of the sand traps :)
> For me, braking whilst turning usually results in me suddenly sliding backwards > towards an immovable object. > > Eldred McWhom - 27 Jan 2004 13:15 GMT > Just to be totally clear, when one does this one is depressing the brake > pedal by the smallest amount possible. Gently scrubbing off speed is a [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > > > > Eldred While practicing I do what Byron has said and glide through the corners (nascar, watkins, infineon) and run some pretty decent laps. Then I race others and get busy with the mirror and *thinking* and end up doing what Eldred said :-(
Sean
jason moyer - 27 Jan 2004 18:25 GMT > Just to be totally clear, when one does this one is depressing the brake >pedal by the smallest amount possible. Gently scrubbing off speed is a >better term to use than "braking". Every little bit helps to keep one out of >the sand traps :) While I'm not the greatest trailbraker in the world, I usually think of it as slowly releasing the brake pedal as I turn in until I'm fully off the brakes just before I reach the corner apex. I can't do it consistently, but when I do get it right it's amazing how much better the car turns since you're keeping the weight on the front wheels.
Of course, more often than not I don't trailbrake enough and miss the apex by 5 feet.
Jason
Steve Smith - 27 Jan 2004 21:03 GMT There is one other issue w. trail braking: tire heat (or overheating). On a mostly-lefts track like Nose Ring (or, worse, Badone), perfect trail braking will put more heat in the RF tire (you're nearer the NE edge of the traction circle than true magnetic north; i.e., you're leaning harder on the RF), which, as Achim and others have pointed out, seems to suffer from a bug in the N2003 executable, and tends to run hotter than the other tires no matter what. Thus, if the RF is getting into the yellow under straight-line braking, it will probably ease into the red under trail-braking. Discuss among yourselves.
> > Just to be totally clear, when one does this one is depressing the brake > >pedal by the smallest amount possible. Gently scrubbing off speed is a [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > > Jason jason moyer - 28 Jan 2004 18:26 GMT >There is one other issue w. trail braking: tire heat (or overheating). On a >mostly-lefts track like Nose Ring (or, worse, Badone), perfect trail braking [quoted text clipped - 5 lines] >braking, it will probably ease into the red under trail-braking. Discuss >among yourselves. "Adjust the stagger and crossweight" =)
Jason
Steve Smith - 28 Jan 2004 18:55 GMT Fair enuf, but no matter what adjustments you make, trail braking will still put more heat into the outside tires, particularly the outside front.
> >There is one other issue w. trail braking: tire heat (or overheating). On a > >mostly-lefts track like Nose Ring (or, worse, Badone), perfect trail braking [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > > Jason jason moyer - 28 Jan 2004 19:51 GMT >Fair enuf, but no matter what adjustments you make, trail braking will still >put more heat into the outside tires, particularly the outside front. "Use harder compounds for the front tires"
Damn I wish we had a new champcar sim.
Jason
Byron John Forbes - 28 Jan 2004 19:16 GMT > > Just to be totally clear, when one does this one is depressing the brake > >pedal by the smallest amount possible. Gently scrubbing off speed is a [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > consistently, but when I do get it right it's amazing how much better > the car turns since you're keeping the weight on the front wheels. Yep, that's it exactly. What I said previously was actually for the situation where one is almost out of control but can still probably get away with a fraction of braking. Coming into parabolica a bit hot is probably a good example.
jason moyer - 28 Jan 2004 19:53 GMT > Yep, that's it exactly. What I said previously was actually for the >situation where one is almost out of control but can still probably get away >with a fraction of braking. Coming into parabolica a bit hot is probably a >good example. Parabolica is a great place to practice trailbraking. If you ease off too soon you'll end up in the sand, if you don't ease off enough you'll end up in the sand, if you get it right you just nicely drift through the corner almost to the exact point where the kerb starts on the right and you can apply full throttle.
Jason
Goy Larsen - 28 Jan 2004 21:12 GMT I think the single discovery that earned me the most time in the post GPL era of sims from Papy was when I stopped turning in on a trailing throttle, I brake late and hard and downshift as fast as possible, but I try to get back on the throttle before I turn in, makes a world of difference to the stability of the car, I don't trailbrake unless I've braked too late :-D
Beers and cheers (uncle) Goy "goyl at nettx dot no"
http://www.theuspits.com
"A man is only as old as the woman he feels........" --Groucho Marx--
EldredP - 29 Jan 2004 03:14 GMT >I think the single discovery that earned me the most time in the post >GPL era of sims from Papy was when I stopped turning in on a trailing >throttle, I brake late and hard and downshift as fast as possible, but I >try to get back on the throttle before I turn in, makes a world of >difference to the stability of the car, I don't trailbrake unless I've >braked too late :-D That sounds like what I described earlier, except it actually WORKS for you...
Eldred
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Goy Larsen - 29 Jan 2004 21:06 GMT > That sounds like what I described earlier, except it actually WORKS for you... Yes it does, I'd say that when I turn in my throttle is neutral to slightly leading (as opposed to trailing ? :-), turning in on a trailing throttle usually allows me to get an excellent view of where I've just been on the track....took me a while to actually realize that it was this I was doing though
Beers and cheers (uncle) Goy "goyl at nettx dot no"
http://www.theuspits.com
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Steve Smith - 29 Jan 2004 01:16 GMT You guys BRAKE for the 'bolica? What's next - feathering the throttle thru Eau Rouge or backing off for the Masta kink, I suppose....
> > Yep, that's it exactly. What I said previously was actually for the > >situation where one is almost out of control but can still probably get away [quoted text clipped - 8 lines] > > Jason Ruud Dingemans - 29 Jan 2004 05:52 GMT > You guys BRAKE for the 'bolica? What's next - feathering the throttle thru > Eau Rouge or backing off for the Masta kink, I suppose.... Hmmm - now we're actually talking to the smoldering remains of S. Smith, I presume?
(Personally, I just can't help my survival instinct kickin' in!)
Regards, Rudy (GPLRank -21)
Steve Smith - 29 Jan 2004 11:42 GMT He-he!
> > You guys BRAKE for the 'bolica? What's next - feathering the throttle thru > > Eau Rouge or backing off for the Masta kink, I suppose.... [quoted text clipped - 6 lines] > Regards, Rudy > (GPLRank -21) EldredP - 29 Jan 2004 20:51 GMT >You guys BRAKE for the 'bolica? What's next - feathering the throttle thru >Eau Rouge or backing off for the Masta kink, I suppose.... Hell, I *brake* for Eau Rouge...and even Stavelot.
Eldred
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Ken MacKay - 26 Jan 2004 16:13 GMT > I haven't > been concentrating on braking much because I have always been told that line > and exit speed are more important. Seems to me that the advice is "get line and exits right first, as they the most important, and THEN work on braking to get the last bit".
I gpl the rumour is to use the tire squeal to determine the braking threshold, you want just the faintest bit of squeal. Trail-braking also helps, lets you go just a little bit deeper, but requires good control to keep on the line. Still haven't figured it out for the TA mod yet, but do know that loud screeching noises and smoke coming out from the fenders is past threshold. :-)
Do you have good resistance in your brake pedal? A squash ball under mine made a big difference, especially with left foot braking.
HTH Ken
Haqsau - 27 Jan 2004 01:03 GMT I use a Momo Racing wheel and pedal set. The pedal pressure actually feels pretty good, very progressive. Not sure how they compare to others but I think they are probably better than the pedals that came with old red and probably about comparable to the MSFF pedals. The only real problem I have noticed that is definitely hardware related is that they are autocalibrating, which means that if I don't remember to press them up and down a few times before driving the range is usually way off.
> Do you have good resistance in your brake pedal? A squash ball under mine made > a big difference, especially with left foot braking. > > HTH > Ken Byron John Forbes - 27 Jan 2004 12:40 GMT > Seems to me that the advice is "get line and exits right first, as they the most > important, and THEN work on braking to get the last bit". Well, I'd say they are the easiest - most definantly not the most important. If you stuff up the turn in then you have also stuffed up mid corner and all that can possibly be ok is exit. A good turn in is critical to any corner and usually sets the tone for a good all around (nice pun here) corner.
Ken MacKay - 27 Jan 2004 17:24 GMT > Well, I'd say they are the easiest - most definantly not the most important. > If you stuff up the turn in then you have also stuffed up mid corner and all > that can possibly be ok is exit. A good turn in is critical to any corner and > usually sets the tone for a good all around (nice pun here) corner. If you miss the turn in you are NOT on the proper line, so yes you have messed up the turn. "The line" goes whole way around the track including the entry to the corners, where you apex, exit, and the sections in between. And if you don't think the line is important then try driving only using the inside half of the track sometime and see if it affects you laptimes. :-)
Mitch_A - 27 Jan 2004 18:19 GMT You make a good point here Ken. The really fast guys seem to get a wider entry without washing up or spinning out which then gives them a later apex which lets em mash the gas sooner giving a great run off and great lap times.
I was running some Norisring with Ginger and man o man he could take some of those turns wide and still have grip. When I got out there I was sliding all over which ends up slowing me down. I think trail braking is what Im missing although Ive been playing around with the technique Im still somewhat out of control. Part of my problem may be my current AL Perf pedals though.
Mitch
> > Well, I'd say they are the easiest - most definantly not the most important. > > If you stuff up the turn in then you have also stuffed up mid corner and all [quoted text clipped - 7 lines] > think the line is important then try driving only using the inside half of the > track sometime and see if it affects you laptimes. :-) Larry - 27 Jan 2004 18:42 GMT I'll give Nosiring this. If you want to go out and play slidy-race-car, this is the place to do it :)
-Larry
> You make a good point here Ken. The really fast guys seem to get a wider > entry without washing up or spinning out which then gives them a later apex [quoted text clipped - 28 lines] > the > > track sometime and see if it affects you laptimes. :-) Mitch_A - 27 Jan 2004 18:59 GMT lol yeppers
> I'll give Nosiring this. If you want to go out and play slidy-race-car, > this is the place to do it :) > > -Larry Josh Boudreau - 26 Jan 2004 17:19 GMT > In almost every online race I have participated in recently there have > been a few guys who could brake in a much shorter distance than the [quoted text clipped - 10 lines] > better feel for it than others, and I want that skill! ;o) Any hints > you can give would be highly appreciated, and probably not just by me. Be sure to have engine braking also help the brakes. This makes a world of a difference for stopping in a shorter distance. Don't pop the gears down like an F1 car, but learn at which speed your gear rations have which rpm When doing that, if you notice the tires going "squeak, squeak, squeak" when you downshift, just give a little throttle to bring up the engine rpm (heal-toe downshift).
As other have mentioned, finding the limit of the tire when braking also help. With GPL the tire squeal was easier to judge with, but with NR2003 you'll have to experiment more. Find the point before the tires lockup. My method for braking for most corners usually to apply full brake pressure at the start of the brake point (harder to lock tires when going faster) when gradually release some brake pressure and modulate if needed.
Probably the ultimate corner to test this is the corner after the long straight at Lemans (bsarthe track). You aproach that corner at 215mph (i do anyway.. don't know about the aliens), so you have a long braking zone. If you turn on the "race line" help, I find I am able to brake 2-3 car length later than the marked brake zone. If you brake for that corner and just put on the brakes and don't downshift, its hard to even get the corner at the marked brake point.
 Signature josh boudreau josh at kfoo dot net
jason moyer - 26 Jan 2004 20:33 GMT >Be sure to have engine braking also help the brakes. This makes a world >of a difference for stopping in a shorter distance. Don't pop the gears >down like an F1 car, but learn at which speed your gear rations have >which rpm When doing that, if you notice the tires going "squeak, squeak, >squeak" when you downshift, just give a little throttle to bring up the >engine rpm (heal-toe downshift). If you're talking N2003, the fastest way to brake is to downshift like a modern F1 car. I've yet to damage an engine/gearbox in either the cup/truck/pta physics by braking hard and immediately working down to the gear I want to exit the upcoming corner in (actually, some corners I downshift further than the gear I'm going to accelerate in to make the engine braking stronger, then shift up before gassing it).
Jason
Steve Smith - 26 Jan 2004 21:22 GMT Me too.
> >Be sure to have engine braking also help the brakes. This makes a world > >of a difference for stopping in a shorter distance. Don't pop the gears [quoted text clipped - 11 lines] > > Jason Larry - 26 Jan 2004 20:29 GMT I think part of it may be analog pedals vs. digital pedals.
Digital Pedals, such as the MSFFW, have 64 'steps', or available output levels. Analog Pedals are near-infinite.
I think those with analog pedals are at a slight advantage here.
-Larry
> In almost every online race I have participated in recently there have been > a few guys who could brake in a much shorter distance than the others. This [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > feel for it than others, and I want that skill! ;o) Any hints you can give > would be highly appreciated, and probably not just by me. Shock - 27 Jan 2004 00:41 GMT It is just something that you will have to get the feel for. I think it is based on instincts. I am kinda caucious so my instincts tell me to brake early. My tactic has been to brake 2 seconds later than I want to. Doing that I am usually competitive in the leagues in which I race.
Shock
> In almost every online race I have participated in recently there have been > a few guys who could brake in a much shorter distance than the others. This [quoted text clipped - 9 lines] > feel for it than others, and I want that skill! ;o) Any hints you can give > would be highly appreciated, and probably not just by me. Joachim Trensz - 27 Jan 2004 13:29 GMT ...
> a few guys who could brake in a much shorter distance than the others The pedals are definitely important. My ECCI Trackstar 3000 made a huge difference.
Achim
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